Food:

Rabbits should be fed plain pellets. Many pet stores carry rabbit food with colorful treats in it, hay, seeds, ect. These foods are not good for rabbits, and they are also expensive! Try to find a plain pellet with around 16% protein. I get my feed at Tractor Supply, 50lbs for around $14. They sell smaller quantities as well.

I feed around ¼ cup of food per pound of rabbit, per day. Fully grown Holland Lops weigh between 3-4 lbs so I offer around 1 cup per day to my adults. You can mix in a teaspoon of rolled oats (not instant) into their food. They really enjoy them, and they help with their digestive health. If your bunny has soft stools, giving rolled oats can help mend that.

Some people offer “unlimited” food which is usually fine, but some rabbits will tend to overeat and gain additional weight. It’s up to you and what you feel works for you and your bunny.

Fruits and vegetables should only be given to rabbits over 6 months in age. No more than cup of packed vegetables a day should be given. A couple good things they can eat are romaine lettuce, apples, kale, and parsley. Always check online to see if something you’re going to give your rabbit is safe, as there are many fruits and vegetables that are not.

Hay:

Bunnies should eat a ball of hay that is at least as big as them, per day. I recommend making a hay rack, so that you can easily stuff it full of hay and your bunny will always have access to it. It’s very important that your bunny always has access to hay, as it is their primary source of nutrition and digestive health.

Timothy or Orchard Grass hay is the best for bunnies. Alfalfa hay should ONLY be given to bunnies under 6 months of age, but I would recommend just sticking with timothy or orchard hay. Alfalfa hay has too much protein. Try to find a nice green hay that smells good. Hay shouldn’t be brownish or moldy. I would not buy hay at pet stores, as it is usually of subpar quality and it is expensive. I get 60 lb bales of hay at my local farm for $5. Tractor Supply also sells compressed bales of quality hay for around $15.

Cage:

There are many styles of rabbit cages. Most cages available at pet stores are pretty small, so if you do decide to go with a smaller cage, make sure your bunny gets plenty of time outside the cage to exercise! Wire bottom cages are fine for rabbits, as long as the wire is pretty thick. If you have a wire bottomed cage, I recommend putting a piece of wood or fleece in a corner as a resting mat, so they can get off the wire when needed.

Litter Pan:

Bunnies will usually pick a corner of their cage they prefer to do their business in, so this makes rabbits fairly easy to litter train. Place the box in the corner they use, and most of the time they will use the box with no issues. They make the corner litter boxes that are sold at pet stores, which work, but sometimes they can be a bit small and your rabbit may pee out the side of it. I personally use Rubbermaid dish pans, they’re $1 at Walmart and they work just fine. I fill mine with about an inch of wood pellets, and put some hay on top. Dump out every 2-3 days depending on how much your rabbit uses it. You can make a hole in the dishpan and attach a clip or zip tie, if your rabbit likes the knock the box over.

Bedding:

My favorite thing to use for rabbit bedding is compressed wood pellets. They’re sold at Tractor Supply, $4 for a 40lb bag. They are pellets made for wood stoves. They absorb the rabbit pee smell wonderfully, and they won’t stick onto your rabbit’s fur or make a mess like pine shavings would. Do not use cedar shavings, they can cause respiratory problems in rabbits.

 

That’s about it for the basics! I recommend doing more research about rabbit care, as it never hurts to have too much knowledge about something. If you have any rabbit care questions, I’m also always happy to answer them for you. If, for whatever reason, you are no longer able to keep your bunny, I will happily take them back and either keep them or try to find them another loving home.

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Thanks,

Virginia